48 hours in Glasgow for a solo traveller
Featured image by Dorin Seremet on Unsplash
As a digital nomad, I generally tend to travel slow; staying put in one place to get to know destinations a little deeper than the average city tour. And, of course, to consider the all important question: “Should I move here?”
That said, there are occasions when my travel itinerary calls for a whistle-stop tour of a city, town or region. As was the case when I had the privilege of visiting the UK for a wedding at the tail-end of summer 2022.
Unfortunately, visa issues on the British embassy’s side meant that what was supposed to be a month-long trip ended up being just under two weeks. (I won’t go into the fact that this also caused me to have to rebook flights less than 24 hours before I needed to depart so as to not miss the wedding.)
The nuptials took place in Perth, about an hour from Edinburgh, which meant that I was able to schedule a few days of exploration in Scotland’s most-loved city. Plus, I managed to squeeze in (and just about afford) a couple of days in London.
One city that I hadn’t expected to see – let alone fall in love with – was Glasgow.
Photo by Giorgio Trovato on Unsplash
Being a big fan of Alexander McCall-Smith’s 44 Scotland Street novels and having spoken to Dunediners, I didn’t have the best impression of the city. Characters in the novel and real life alike tend to be quite disparaging about the Dear Green Place.
However, when I found out that getting a train from Edinburgh to Glasgow and then to London was cheaper than the direct Edinburgh to London, I decided that I simply had to visit the city on the River Clyde. Sometimes being a bit of a cheapo opens up some interesting doors, doesn’t it?
So, travel plans locked in, I hopped on the train and headed to Glasgow, a city I previously had no inclination to visit, with no plans, for 48 hours. (Ok, it was a bit longer, but I wasted a lot of time on my first day as a consequence of too much wine at the wedding, so I’m going with 48 hours.)
Here’s what I did, what I didn’t do that I wish I had, what I’d do again and what I wouldn’t. All in a neat, two-day, culture-rich trip.
As always, the places I mention are open at the time of publication and the prices are accurate for the same. They are subject to change, though, so it’s always best to check before you go!
Getting around
City Sightseeing Glasgow
For some reason, City Sightseeing tours seem to be a no-no for ‘serious’ travellers. I don’t understand why. If I find myself at a destination where the big red buses circulate, you can be sure that I’ll catch a ride to see the city stress free.
(It’s important to mention here that I’m referring specifically to City Sightseeing. I’ve tried other bus tours – looking at you, Big Bus – but their routes are rarely as extensive and audio guides seldom as informative or accurately matched to the journey.)
Although Glasgow does have a subway system, it traces a circle around the perimeter of the city rather than taking you directly to popular spots. Uber and other ride-sharing solutions are expensive and the city is sprawling – especially if you’ve only got a few days to explore.
Photo by Ben Wicks on Unsplash
First Bus Glasgow, the public bus system, does operate more than 80 routes around the city, but I tend to avoid using public buses where I can. This may be a bit of PTSD from buses being the only real form of public transport in South Africa.
That aside, I also find it a whole bunch less stressful to be able to hop on and off at all of the major attractions with a single ticket and without much other planning.
To my mind, the City Sightseeing Tour is the perfect solution for getting around Glasgow if you’re there for just a few days and want to see all of the ‘major’ sights without overspending on transport.
Plus, the tour starts at 9:30 and ends around 20:30 in summer. So there’s plenty of time to spare in the day whether you’re an early riser or night owl.
The important stuff
Price: £16 for 24 hours | £17 for 48 hours
Duration: 90 minutes (without alighting at any of the 21 stops)
Best place to start: George Square (the centre of Glasgow, surrounded by beautiful buildings)
Where to stop: Glasgow Cathedral (2), Merchant Square (3), The Clydeside Distillery (11a), University of Glasgow (14), Kelvingrove (16)
Tip: You can hop off at the University of Glasgow, walk through the campus and pop out at Kelvingrove, visit the museum and hop back on.
Where to skip: People’s Palace (5), Bell’s Bridge (11)
Where to eat
Glasgow’s history as a trading hub and its many prestigious learning institutions have long made the city a haven for migrants from around the UK and the rest of the world. Which means that there’s plenty of delicious nosh to enjoy here.
Breakfast & light meals
Glasgow has great breakfast culture. There are loads of cute spots to enjoy your first meal of the day along with a cracking coffee. (Or, if you’re caffeine-free like me, a cup of tea.) These are the two I wouldn’t miss on a whirlwind tour:
The Wilson Street Pantry
Image from Instagram: @wilsonstreetpantry
Area: Merchant City
Address: 6 Wilson Street
Opening hours: 09:00 to 16:00, Monday to Sunday
The Wilson Street Pantry serves brunch all day, every day. If there’s one thing you have to try, it’s their signature sourdough toast with avocado and dukkah. Eat at the large family table inside or grab a spot in the sunshine outside.
Scran
Image from Instagram: @scrangla
Area: Trongate
Address: 239 London Road
Opening hours: 10:00 to 16:00, Wednesday to Sunday
Probably the only reason to hop off the City Sightseeing Bus at the People’s Palace stop, Scran believes in serving simple food cooked well. Don’t miss out on the Crispy Pork Brunch Bun – even if the Marmite mascarpone sounds a bit strange.
Lunch & dinner
Fun fact about me: Lunch is my favourite meal. Especially when travelling. Mainly because I’m a huge fan of small plates – I much prefer nibbling on three or four different snacks than a big main course.
Halloumi
Image from Instagram: @halloumiglasgow
Area: City Centre
Address: 161 Hope Street
Opening hours: 12:00 to 22:00, Monday to Sunday
A lovely little Greek eatery that has two locations in Glasgow. Halloumi serves up Greek classics like gyros, souvlaki and, of course, halloumi. Two to three mezze plates – all served with pita – is plenty for one.
Hooligan
Image from Instagram: @hooligan.wine
Area: Kelvingrove
Address: 1 Lynedoch Street
Opening hours: 12:00 to 17:00, Tuesday to Thursday; 12:00 to 01:00, Friday & Saturday; 12:00 to 22:00, Sunday
Technically a wine bar, you’ll find Hooligan in an old tenement flat near Kelvingrove Art Gallery. Mediterranean-influenced small plates are served alongside unique, low-intervention wines. Plus, there are vegan and vegetarian options.
The Botany Bar & Restaurant
Image courtesy: The Botany Bar & Restaurant
Area: North Kelvinside
Address: 795 Maryhill Road
Opening hours: 12:00 to 22:00, Tuesday to Thursday; 11:30 to 23:00, Friday; 11:30 to 22:00, Saturday & Sunday
The cute, laid-back Botany Bar & Restaurant offers light bites and a la carte dishes on a seasonally inspired menu. It’s best to book ahead for this one and ask for a seat near the window when you do.
Ox & Finch
Image from Instagram: @oxandfinch
Area: Kelvingrove
Address: 920 Sauchiehall Street
Opening hours: 12:00 to 00:00, Monday to Sunday
Elevated tapas would likely be the best way to describe the food at Ox & Finch. The bright, bold, contemporary fare and cocktails perfectly complement the chic interior. Don’t miss their steak tartare, charred hispi cabbage or the bare bones chocolate mousse.
Fat Lobster
Image from Instagram: @fatlobsterglasgow
Area: Merchant City
Address: 157 Hope Street
Opening hours: 12:00 to 22:00, Tuesday to Sunday
Just down the road from Halloumi, Fat Lobster is a seafood lover’s dream. They also have a stunning bar that’s perfect for a pic with a cocktail in hand. For food, try the hot lobster roll or the baked mussels – it’s tough to decide which is more delicious.
Drinks
Whatever the day or time, you’ll be able to find a watering hole in Glasgow that’s serving up all sorts of tipples. Whether you’re into beer, wine or cocktails, there’s plenty to drink.
The Spiritualist Glasgow
Image courtesy of The Spiritualist
Area: Merchant City
Address: 62 Miller Street
Opening hours: 12:00 to 00:00, Thursday to Sunday; 16:00 to 00:00, Wednesday
Although they do serve food – and a bottomless brunch – at The Spiritualist, cocktails are the main event. The Tropical Bird is great if you’re into fresh fruit, while Nana’s Jam is great for gin lovers.
WEST Brewery
Image from Instagram: @west.beer
Area: Glasgow Green
Address: 15 Binnie Place
Opening hours: 11:00 to 23:00, Sunday to Thursday; 11:00 to 00:00 Friday & Saturday
You’ll find the freshest craft beer in Glasgow at WEST Brewery. All the beer served from the taps here is brewed in the basement of the historic Templeton Carpet Factory building that houses WEST, in accordance with the Reinheitsegebot (German Purity Law) of 1516.
Where to be entertained
Glasgow is arguably most famous for its live music scene. (You can even listen to a music-themed audio guide on the City Sightseeing Tour.) It’s a city where big artists are made – and where they come to visit.
Big Feed Street Food Social
Image from Instagram: @goodtimes.tacos
Area: Various
Address: Various
Opening hours: Various
Big Feed is a travelling street food collective that puts on weekly events around Glasgow. There’s plenty of food and music on offer to keep you entertained throughout each and every festival.
O’Neill’s Merchant Square
Image from Instagram: @oneillspubs
Area: Merchant Square
Address: 71-73 Albion Street
Opening hours: 12:00 to 23:00, Sunday to Thursday; 12:00 to 01:00, Friday & Saturday
Although it’s part of a chain, this classic Irish pub and bar in Glasgow is a great spot if you want to watch some sport or just get a bit unruly. O’Neill’s Merchant Square serves up almost every drink imaginable alongside good old pub grub.
Òran Mór
Image from Instagram: @oranmorglasgow
Area: Hillhead
Address: Byres Road
Opening hours: 11:00 to 03:00, Monday to Sunday
Housed in the former Kelvinside Parish Church, Òran Mór has two bars, three restaurants, a live music venue, night club and an auditorium. Whatever you go for, wear comfy shoes because you probably won’t do much sitting until the wee hours of the morning.
The Dockyard Social
Image from Instagram: @dockyardsocial
Area: West End
Address: 95-107 Haugh Road
Opening hours: 17:00 to 23:00, Friday; 12:00 to 23:00, Saturday; 12:00 to 20:00, Sunday
Open only at the weekend, The Dockyard Social is a social dining experience that’s been designed to bring friends together. You’ll need a ticket to get in, which will set you back £6 but comes with a free beer, daiquiri or glass of prosecco.
Where to stay
Like any other city, there’s a wide range of accommodation in Glasgow. Plus, it’s relatively reasonably priced compared to other large cities (especially those in the UK).
It’s always a good idea to check the football calendar before you head to Glasgow. There was a Rangers-Celtics game on when I wanted to extend my trip by one day. Which meant that accommodation pickings were slim – and expensive.
The best places to stay are in the city centre (near to George Square) and in the West End. I preferred the latter as it’s closer to loads of great restaurants and university nightlife spots, but the former is equally as convenient.
Here’s a look at some inexpensive, mid-range and luxury options for stays in Glasgow.
Cheap picks
Safestay Glasgow Charing Cross
Image: Safestay Glasgow Charing Cross via Booking.com
Accommodation type: Hostel, mixed dorm rooms, 4+ bunk beds
Location: Central
Address: 25-27 Elmbank Street
Price: £30 per night
Glasgow Youth Hostel
Image: Glasgow Youth Hostel via Booking.com
Accommodation type: Hostel, single-sex dorm rooms, 8 bunk beds
Location: West End
Address: 7/8 Park Terrace
Price: £30 per night; private rooms from £70 per night
Mid-range options
Kelvingrove Hotel – Sauchiehall Street
Image: Kelvingrove Hotel
Accommodation type: Hotel, private room & shared bathroom, private room with en suite
Location: West End
Address: 944 Sauchiehall Street
Price: £50–75 per night
Ambassador Hotel
Image: Ambassador Hotel
Accommodation type: Hotel, private room with en suite, breakfast included
Location: North West
Address: 7 Kelvin Drive
Price: £60–90 per night
Pricey stays
voco Grand Central – Glasgow
Image from Instagram: @vocograndcentral
Accommodation type: Hotel, private room with en suite
Location: City Centre
Address: 99 Gordon Street
Price: £150 per night
Virgin Hotels Glasgow
Image: Virgin Hotels Glasgow
Accommodation type: Hotel, private room with en suite
Location: City Centre (with river views)
Address: 246 Clyde Street
Price: £210+ per night
Wherever you choose to stay and whatever you choose to do, Glasgow is an amazing city to get lost in. It should definitely make an appearance on your itinerary if you’re planning a trip to Scotland.
